Wide Open Table is a bi-monthly Montana Free Press column on all things food and cooking. Sign up for this newsletter here.
I donโt have a green thumb. In a state filled with farmers who feed the country and plenty of great urban backyard gardeners who feed their families, I can barely keep an already grown basil plant alive during the summer.
Rather than sulk in summertime sorrow for my lack of gardening skills, I have concentrated on two alternatives: 1) befriending gardeners who have bumper crops, and 2) visiting Montana farmers markets for fresh produce.

When it comes to the growing season, weโre at a slight disadvantage compared to southern or coastal states. All that means is that we appreciate those times of year when we can get locally produced vegetables and fruits that give us a break from the heavier foods of wintertime.
This garden fritter recipe honors Montana gardeners and farmers with a tasty Montana commodity we have in abundance: red lentils. In this recipe, these decorticated (i.e., husks removed) pulses are soaked for at least two hours, blended with a few aromatics, and thus transformed into a delicious and nutritious binder for the abundant zucchini and summer squash that neighborhood gardeners are often eager to give away at peak harvest.
The process of combining fresh veggies into a flourless, gluten-free and protein-packed fritter with the help of red lentils is one Iโve seen in many recipes originating from the Indian subcontinent. With the highest percentage of vegetarians of any country in the world, India has developed some delicious ways to enjoy the pulse crops we grow in Big Sky Country.
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Ranch: The official condiment of Montana?
I believe ranch is unquestionably Montanaโs favorite condiment. Itโs the white, herby, creamy stuff we pair with far more foods than your typical side salad. Ranch is so popular in Montana that it may very well deserve an official proclamation as Montanaโs official state dip/dressing/sauce/condiment. Hear me out.
Since this fritter recipe borrows some great Indian flavors and techniques, I went a step further to combine Montanaโs love of ranch dressing with more Indian ingredients. You may recall my ultimate ranch recipe, which I developed to satisfy our stateโs unquenchable desire for one of the best dips/dressings/condiments on the planet. These fritters were begging for a good dollop of ranch with an Indian twist.
For the Indian-spice ranch, I swapped out some of the typical ingredients and added fresh cilantro as the herb, and a spice blend called tandoori masala. This blend often contains a mix of cumin, coriander, ginger, cardamom, fenugreek, garlic, nutmeg, black pepper, chile pepper, mace, cinnamon, clove and other spices.

As with most spice blends, you wonโt find an identical version from chef to chef or vendor to vendor. I like it because of how much depth and complexity it brings to the sauce for these relatively simple garden fritters. You can sometimes find tandoori masala in larger Montana grocery stores, or you can order it online. My favorite happens to come from www.spicewalla.com.
The important thing you should know about these garden fritters is that once you learn the technique of using grated or finely chopped veggies in the red lentil batter, this can turn into a โchoose your own adventureโ dish where you can swap out some or all of the zucchini and squash for ingredients like finely grated carrots, blanched potatoes, finely shredded cabbage, bell peppers, or whatever floats your boat. Just make sure you keep to the ratio of thinly sliced onion (I like to use red for the color) to properly flavor the fritters.
Another aspect of the dish you can experiment with is the flavoring of the red lentil batter. I use a garlic clove, lemon zest, cumin powder, and a small serrano pepper to add some heat. But you could add chopped ginger and other spices or flavor enhancers to elevate this veggie experience.
GARDEN FRITTER INGREDIENTS
5-6 ounces zucchini
5-6 ounces yellow squash
5-6 ounces red onion
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 cup of red lentils
zest of half a lemon
1/2 tsp cumin
1 garlic clove
2 tbsp of finely chopped fresh cilantro
olive oil
optional: one small serrano pepper
INDIAN-SPICE RANCH INGREDIENTS
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp tandoori masala
zest of half a lemon
1 large scallion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, grated or ground into paste
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh cilantro
optional: 1/2 tsp chile powder or cayenne pepper for heat
salt and pepper to taste
RECIPE
Soak your red lentils in warm water for at least two and up to eight hours.
Combine all ingredients for the Indian-spice ranch in a bowl. Mix well and cover with plastic wrap. Place in the refrigerator to let the flavors marry until youโre ready to serve the fritters. You can always thin out the ranch with a bit more buttermilk or thicken it with a bit more yogurt according to your preferences.
Using a box grater or a food processor, shred your zucchini and yellow squash (you want large grated pieces, not finely grated). Using a clean kitchen towel, squeeze as much moisture as possible out of the shredded veggies. Add the veggies to a large mixing bowl. Slice your onion as thinly as possible and add to the bowl along with the cumin and lemon zest.
Roughly chop your garlic clove (and serrano pepper, if using) and add to a food processor with the kosher salt and red lentils drained of the soaking liquid. Blend well and make sure to scrape down the walls of the food processor between blends until you get a homogenous paste. Add this red lentil paste to the mixing bowl with the other ingredients and mix well.
In a large nonstick pan or cast-iron skillet, add a few tablespoons of olive oil and pre-heat to medium. Add a heaping spoonful of the fritter batter and use the back of the spoon to push the fritter flat. Cook 4 to 5 fritters at a time until they turn golden-brown (about 3 minutes per side). Serve while hot, then drizzle with the Indian-spice ranch and lemon juice.
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