Summertime eats: the powwow burger

Any discussion of Montana’s food heritage should include the first Montanans — the diverse tribal communities and nations both on reservations and ingrained throughout the state’s communities.

The foodways and diets of American Indians in Montana varied from tribe to tribe prior to Europeans coming on the scene. In the western U.S., the importance of harvesting bison for food, clothing, tools and more can hardly be overstated. When I set out to write a column focused on a dish that traces its roots to summertime celebrations in Indian Country, I needed some history.  

For this recipe, I teamed up with my friend Steve Parker, an enrolled member of the Chippewa Cree tribe. Steve owns, operates, and serves as pitmaster for Parker’s BBQ Pit in Havre. Back in the summer of 2019, Steve welcomed me to the Rocky Boy’s Powwow and served up some of his smoky BBQ. My stomach still growls at the memory. 

Steve tells me barbecue has a long history in Montana, with roots dating back to the Native American tribes that lived in the region. These early inhabitants would roast and smoke bison and other wild game over an open fire, using a variety of herbs and spices for flavor. In the 19th and 20th centuries, European settlers began to arrive in Montana, bringing with them their own barbecue traditions. These settlers would often hold gatherings where they slow-cooked meats such as beef and pork over a pit or on a spit.

As a third-generation pitmaster, Steve is grateful to carry on the love for the craft. At Parker’s BBQ Pit, his goal is to produce the best backyard barbecue possible, inspired by various BBQ meccas around the U.S. and paying tribute to Indigenous ancestors. In the summer months, he even flavors sauces and meats with fresh juneberries — an ingredient often used by various tribes in Montana.  

Barbecue and other foods are always a big part of any powwow event, and the reason isn’t just celebratory. The sharing of food is part of a long heritage, Steve explained, because it wasn’t always in abundance. Historically, Indigenous people had to hunt and gather their nourishment even in the harsh winter months. Sharing that nourishment with others has always been a means of survival, mutual care and communal blessings. Today, powwow vendors still give thanks for nature’s hard-won bounty.  

You can often find a unique dish at Montana powwows: a powwow burger. I ate my first at the Crow Fair Powwow several years ago. It was huge — a foot-and-a-half-wide disk of delicious fry bread enveloping two burger patties, cheese, and toppings. I couldn’t eat the whole thing, even though I tried really hard. 

While you should definitely seek out a powwow this summer, Steve and I have teamed up to bring you a powwow burger you can make at home. 

Fry bread is the defining ingredient of the powwow burger, and we opted for a recipe featuring two smaller fry breads, as opposed to a giant disk, to envelope the burger. This recipe gives you the option to use either ground bison or beef, but either way, a good outdoor grilling is essential for smokiness and flavor. 

Our toppings are inspired by ingredients that were prevalent in the western hemisphere prior to colonization: green chiles, avocado and tomato. Green onions are grilled and tossed in for added smokiness, and because wild onions were used by Native Americans in many areas. 

Steve and I both urge you to learn more about the diverse Indian nations in Montana. This powwow burger is a delicious place to start. 

POWWOW BURGER RECIPE
Serves 6 

2 cups flour
1 cup lukewarm water
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp sugar
2 tbsp baking powder
2 avocados (about 20 oz.)
4 oz. can roasted green chiles 
6 green onions
1.5 lbs ground bison or beef
2 tomatoes
6 slices American cheese
1 lime
vegetable oil

Whisk the dry ingredients and combine with water until it forms a ball of fry bread dough. Let rest 15 minutes. Divide into 12 equal pieces. Flatten each piece with your hands into a 4-inch disk. Cook the fry bread buns in 1/2 an inch of vegetable oil in a preheated pan over medium heat. 

Cut the green onions in half to separate the lighter-green sections from the heartier white parts. Lightly drizzle with vegetable oil, salt and pepper. Grill the green onions, taking care to keep them from burning or falling through the grill. The lighter-green tops will only take a minute, while the thicker white parts will take another minute or two.

Peel the avocados and remove the seeds. Mash with a fork and add the roasted green chiles. Finely chop the grilled scallion and add to the avocado-chile mixture. Salt and pepper to taste. 

I would suggest also adding a drizzle of freshly squeezed lime juice. This will create a nice pop of acidic freshness that will brighten up the guacamole and act as a preservative to keep it from turning brown.

Form six burger patties to the general circumference of your fry bread buns. Grill the burgers to your preferred doneness and top with a slice of American cheese. Put one burger on one fry bread bun. Place the avocado-chile mixture on top of the cheese, followed by a slice of tomato, and top with another fry bread bun.