Tomato soup for the 21st century

Do the culinary classics demand preservation and protection so they can be handed down unchanged from generation to generation? Or are we allowed to put our own spin on them so they can carry new meanings and (gasp!) even be improved? 

I like to think I have a foot in both camps. We should learn the classics and their histories and pass them along. We should also feel free to apply our own twists to the tried and true. 

Tomato soup holds a special place in my belly, and likely in yours. Don’t we all remember a favorite Montana diner version, served with salty crackers or a gooey grilled cheese? 

Some would say the classic tomato soup is already perfect, so don’t mess with it. I can’t argue with that. But my love of food includes adventure, which drives me to explore new flavors, ingredients and techniques. That often leads me across borders in search of inspiration.

Today’s tomato soup borrows flavors originating far from home — east Africa, to be exact. Many Westerners are just discovering berbere, an Ethiopian spice blend combining chilis, paprika, coriander, ginger, cumin, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, allspice and/or clove. As with any blend, berbere’s ingredients and ratios can vary from region to region, and even family to family. 

Berbere produces a warming effect that is the source of its name (the word translates as “hot”). It’s not going to knock your socks off with heat in the context of this soup, but its complexity adds a layered range of flavors that will make your taste buds happy. Some stores carry berbere in the spice aisle. You can also order it online. 

My version of tomato soup also features a second deviation that connects it back home to Montana. I add Montana-grown red lentils for flavor, viscosity and a boost of nutrition. Protein isn’t typical of tomato soup, but once you try these red lentils you may wonder why you ever made tomato soup without them. They’re small enough to cook quickly without need of a pre-soak.  

This recipe is beautifully simple to prepare. You don’t need precision chopping skills, since the aromatics eventually get blended smooth. And you can easily make a big batch and freeze it for ready-to-go lunches or dinner on a too-busy day. 

I’ll never stop enjoying the diner-classic tomato soup I grew up on. It always hits the spot, especially as we enter the crisp temperatures of soup season. At the same time, I’m confident you’ll be missing out on an equally memorable meal if you don’t try this 21st-century version. 

21^st CENTURY TOMATO SOUP RECIPE
Serves 7-8 

1 tbsp freshly chopped garlic
1 tbsp freshly chopped ginger
1 medium onion, roughly chopped
28 oz. can good quality whole peeled tomatoes
4 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
1 tbsp berbere spice mix
1 tbsp tomato paste
1/2 cup red lentils
2 tbsp olive oil

In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, sweat the chopped onions in olive oil with salt and pepper on medium-low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chopped garlic and ginger, tomato paste and berbere, and cook for three minutes. Add the broth, lentils and canned tomatoes and raise the heat until it reaches a gentle simmer. Place a lid on the pot, slightly offset, and drop the heat to low. Let it simmer for 30 minutes. 

Now blend the soup with an immersion blender until very smooth. Taste for salt, pepper and berbere levels and adjust according to your preference. Eat with a piece of crusty bread and/or top with a mixture of 1/2 cup plain yogurt and 1/4 cup milk. Feel free to sprinkle with a dusting of more berbere.

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